The Breathtaking Beauty of Budapest – Part 1

Europe here we come!  First stop Budapest, the capital of Hungary.

Wow, we get to fly again.  During the pandemic, it was beginning to look like travel was off the books for a long time.   Our ‘Retirement Trip of a Lifetime” of taking a Grand European River Cruise from Budapest to Amsterdam was cancelled a sad three times before finally a ray of hope appeared in our email inbox.

Viking gave us the green light that our River Cruise was back on so we jumped on board and started packing for Budapest.

The following post begins with a brief segue into how even with a commitment to careful time management, Murphy’s Law of Travel can foil the best laid plans and turn an 11 hour Flight into a 30 hour Endurance Marathon.  Of course, we didn’t know that when we got up bright and early and headed to YVR in Vancouver.

Let’s Go Travelling!.

Perhaps Budapest is not a major European hub city like London, Paris, or Frankfurt but normally it is a considered a pretty easy connection: Simply board a plane from Vancouver to Paris and change planes a couple of hours later to Budapest.  Easy Peasy … unless of course this happens …

At 7:00 am, we left home for the airport to catch our 11:00 flight.  The excitement of travelling again after Covid (remember that?) provided enough adrenalin that the early hour wasn’t an issue.  As per regulations we arrived at the airport 3 hours before our international flight and checked in. This is where we met our first “oops.”

The smiling face of the attendant at the counter informed us that our departure flight was being delayed.  Fortunately we had booked our flight from Paris to Budapest with a 2+ hour window so we thought we would be fine. 

Traveller TIP: When booking connecting flights, always add in extra time at the stopover airport to transfer.  If there are flights at 1 hour or 3 hours after arriving at the stopover, we recommend the 3 hours.

Dreaming we were still on track to make our Paris Flight connection, we went to the SkyTeam VIP Lounge to get something to eat and settled into comfortable chairs to wait.

Traveller TIP:  Use TRAVEL Credit Cards to gain access to VIP Lounges around the World where you can eat, drink and rest in a comfortable quiet setting while waiting for your flight.  Some even have showers and beds!

So far the delay was just a hiccup on our adventure.  Everything was still workable.  We relaxed, read a bit and watched the Departure Board.  Our 1 hour delay turned into 3 hours before we boarded the plane that whisked us away to Paris.  This was going to cut it close.

Upon arriving in Paris we were met by a very sympathetic attendant who informed us that our connecting flight to Budapest had … yes you guessed it, just left …. but apparently the good news was that we were already booked on the next outgoing flight on the same airline … which would leave in … 9 hours.

Oh Joy, we love Paris but after 15 hours of travel already under our belt and night approaching, we just didn’t have enough time or energy to stash our gear, head out and come back through security again. 

So we found a cozy spot, brought out our Kobos and settled in.

Apparently Murphy wasn’t done with us yet.

We didn’t know we were about to embark on game called “Guess that Gate”.  While we whiled away the hours waiting for our flight to Budapest, the first gate change was announced so we dutifully walked to another wing of the Airport.  Apparently we needed the exercise.

As the appointed hour approached, we noticed there was still no activity at the Gate.  Approaching an airport Agent we were informed that our flight had been shifted to a 3rd Gate that was in a galaxy far away … well at least another wing of the Airport and it was boarding now,

So now we are running along the escalators, lugging our luggage, huffing and puffing and feeling more like first time vacationers rather than seasoned travelers.  We found our Gate and were the last ones to board.  The staff appeared quite impressed with our timing.

We made it, but it was almost one “oops” too many.  We found our seats and simply laughed out loud.  What else could we do?

Just a 1 hour hop and soon we’ll we’ll be in Budapest.  All safe and sound.

Upon arrival in Budapest, our Hotel  had sent a car and driver to pick us up even though we were half a day late!  Along with our carry-ons we now had one seriously dinted suitcase that got mugged in the baggage compartment below. Apparently, we were not the only ones to have a rough time flying.  One corner of our “hard case” suitcase was completely broken off.

Our driver suggested we take it to the Air France flight desk immediately, but after our day long journey we were just too tired to find someone to complain to. 

Traveller TIP:  Although we were exhausted, we have since decided we should have gone to the Airline Desk for some type of compensation because really … the suitcase was useless after this trip.

The airport was basically empty at this hour, with no security check-in, and no car rental – the lights were off and everyone had gone home. I guess they didn’t get many visitors at this time of year and had not returned to full hours after the pandemic.

Soon we were at the Mystery Hotel and a wonderful bed welcomed our arrival.  Sleep came quickly.

As you might imagine, Budapest has some fascinating history.  It is old but also nearly brand new.

This city has had its share of change. According to historians, the city’s origin can be traced back to the Celts before the Romans came along in the 1st century AD.  However it was the 7 Magyar Tribes that finally defeated the Romans and unified the region to create the Kingdom of Hungary in 896 AD.

Originally Budapest was two cities Buda and Pest located on opposite sides of the Danube River.  Buda became the Capital of Hungary in 1361 and Pest was mostly left under developed as there was no permanent bridge across the Danube River.

Finally, in 1849, The Chain Bridge became the first permanent bridge to join Buda with Pest.  In 1873 the 2 cities came together to create Budapest as a strong, modern capital of what was then the Austro-Hungarian Empire.

These two “cities” still have their own personalities as Buda is often considered classier and more residential whereas Pest is known as the place where the action happens.

The Buda Castle was initially established as far back as the mid-13th century.  Thanks to dozens of sieges, battles and wars, the structure stands today as a more modern specimen, with most reconstruction having taken place after WW 2. 

Don’t fret, there is more History to follow in Chapter 2 of our Budapest Adventures.

Waking up the next day we surveyed the suite that was to be our home for the next few days and started to relax.  We finally made it to Budapest.

The Mystery Hotel is a curious mixture of ornate and eclectic with all of the modern staples that we hope to find when we travel such as Coffee/Tea setting, walk in shower with a bonus large soaker tub combined with some curiosities such as plush velvet settee, 2 pillars and a 1930’s style phone. 

The view outside our thick velvet drapes looked over the train tracks and a variety of very utilitarian buildings that were probably built when the country was under occupation.  The Hotel perfectly mimics the city itself as Budapest has districts of opulent buildings that are grand in scale and a visual delight while in other sectors there buildings that are more functional than beautiful.  Hungary was under Communist rule from 1956 to 1991.  One can definitely feel a unique blend of East and West in Budapest.

For us, the area of our hotel is in a great location as it is half way between the Danube River sites and Hero’s Square.  Budapest is an incredible city for simply strolling along any given street as there are so many fascinating works of art on corners or attached to buildings.  Our heads were on a swivel looking up, down and all around at every step to try and see every piece of art so readily available in all of the common areas.  

But this morning, our first objective was a hot shower.  I must admit the shower and I did have a frank discussion about which showerhead was going to come into play.  It took some persuading but in the end, you’ll be glad to know I won without calling down to maintenance!

Next up Breakfast buffet and what a buffet. They had all the items we were accustomed to back in Canada plus a huge assortment of delicious pastries, cheeses, sliced meats and of course champagne.  A great way to start the new day.  Best part, if nothing at the buffet matches your taste buds, they take special orders. It was fabulous.

Rested and full of our amazing breakfast, we went out to explore the streets of Budapest.

Our first venture is to find the nearest Hop-On Hop-Off Bus stop as this is one of our favourite first day activities.  The front desk gave us some rough directions and we headed out with bright hopes and empty sim cards in our cameras.  We were only a few blocks away but couldn’t help but look for Murphy over our shoulders.   

We walked to the location only to find that apparently it did not exist.  At least not here.  So we asked a city worker, a policeman and even a few business people on their way to important jobs and no-one had any recollection that such a bus stop even existed.  As we were searching up and down the block, we passed an elderly gentleman painting landscapes on the sidewalk, easily 5 or 6 times.  He seemed to study us intently but in the end he just smiled and continued painting.  Perhaps we are 2 small figures in a painting on someone’s hallway aptly named: “Lost Tourists in Budapest”.

We began to question our sudden lapse of navigation skills however we are stubborn and didn’t give up the search.  Lo and behold, our  elusive prey rounded the corner across the street and we were finally able to track our quarry down. 

Note: The Budapest Big Bus company has recently added a feature on their website where you can simply enter your current location and the site will give you directions on getting to the nearest Stop Location. 

 Here is the link to their website:

Budapest BigBus Tours (Hop On Hop Off)

Once on board, we climbed to our favourite perch on top and off we went to learn and relish the beauty and history of Budapest.   One of the reasons we like the HOHO is that the routes go by some of the main sites and there is usually a commentary.

TRAVELLERS’ TIP: We picked up the multi day pass for only 4 more Euros than a single day and definitely recommend doing this if your are going to stay more than 1 day.

Our Explorations of Budapest had finally begun!  Below are some of the sights we saw.

Everywhere throughout the city, Budapest will surprise your senses with finely wrought doors, painted windows and carved masterworks of art adorning buildings and in the street.

It is so amazing to see these Works of Art so readily displayed in common areas or hidden in little alcoves as casual ornaments and fixtures.

Budapest is well served with 8 Bridges that cross the Danube River. 

The most famous is the Szechenyi Bridge, built in 1849,  was the first permanent bridge to join Buda with Pest and was a major step to bringing to two cities together.  Often called the Chain Bridge because it uses chain links instead of cables.  Although it was closed while we were there for renovation, it is now open for pedestrians and traffic.

Below you can see the Liberty Bridge which features an art nouveau design, mythological sculptures and the Coat of Arms for Hungary with eagles on top of the arches.

Heroes’ Square

While on Tour with our Hop On Hop Off (HOHO) BigBus, we had to get off at the dramatic Heroes’ Square filled with bronze statues and reliefs of heroes and the stories of the past. 

Construction on this Millennium Memorial (as it has come to be known) was started in 1895 as the 1000 year Anniversary 7 Chieftains of the Magyar tribes came together to form Hungary.  They encircle the 36 meter high monument know as Gabriel Archangel’s Column.  This column commemorates the Archangel Gabriel holding the crown of St Stephen.

Here you will see many iconic symbols on display in the bronze reliefs and statues including other heroes and statesmen throughout Hungary’s history.  You can find out more details here.

Another interesting fact is that this is the site of original well (971 meters deep) that found the original thermal springs that now supply the famous Szechenyi Baths nearby.

As you can see by size of the people in the square, the scale is very impressive and there is so much detail in the statues and reliefs and one could easily while away a few hours before proceeding to the Városliget City Park.

Built in 1895, the monuments, statues and carvings commemorated the 1000 year anniversary of the founding of the Hungarian State in 896 AD.

If you can, it is recommended to come just before sundown to experience the deep rich light on the monument.

Archangel Gabriel holding St Stephen’s Crown tops the Monument with the 7 chiefs surrounding.  Below is one of the Panel Details.

The Heroes’ Square is a magificent entrance to the City Park so we recommend doing both at once … but make sure to give yourself a few hours to enjoy. There is likely more in these 2 areas than you have time for but take your time and enjoy!

Városliget City Park is the official name but this park is commonly referred to as just “City Park”.

The City Park is a wonderful leisure area for the citizens of Budapest, and includes sports facilities, swimming baths, and a boating lake.

During the winter months, the boating lake is transformed into one of Europe’s largest ice rinks.

The park is also home to the Budapest Municipal Zoo and Botanical Gardens, the Budapest Circus and the Vajdahunyad Castle (housing the Museum of Hungarian Agriculture).

Just outside of the park you can find the Time Wheel, which is one of the largest sand timers in the world.

In this sand timer, all of the grains of glass take 1 year to fall from the top section to the bottom, and the timer is rotated every New Year.

Back at the Heroes Square a huge stage had been set up at the Museum of Fine Arts and an entire orchestra was practicing for the big day tomorrow: St Stephen’s Day, a national holiday commemorating Hungary’s Day of Independence.  Numerous performers went through their paces, including school children, local and high end entertainers.  The surrounding crowd was totally energized, entertained and excited to see some of their favorite performers in person. 

We stayed for awhile but when our stomach started to growl we went to find some food and drink.

Time for us to Close Part One of our Adventures in Budapest, Hungary where we focused mainly on Pest, which is on the East side of the Danube River.   We’ll also show you more about the festivities of St Stephen’s Day and take a walk along the river. 

Don’t forget to check out some of our recommended Highlights, Resources and Activities down below.